Wednesday, May 24, 2017

The North Atlantic - Part 1

As someone with an inquisitive nature and a joy of global exploration, there have been places I have always wanted to go which I knew I could get to, and then there are places that fell into the "yeah, that would be nice to get to, but logically it doesn't seem feasible.".  We all have them, take a minute and think about your list.

A minute has passed...maybe more, probably less.

For me, I have always been aware of the iconic Canadian sandbar, proudly nestled off the coasts of Nova Scotia and Newfoundland, but truly never thought I would step foot on; Sable Island.  It all starts with the appropriate aviation delay; be it weather, engine trouble, or a test flight to the coast (or all three in my experience).


After a successful beach landing in the Norman Islander we flew out on, my introduction to Sable Island was abrupt, and raw.  The ocean to the South, the infamous Sable Island horses scattered to the North and East. Greeted by the Parks Canada Coordinator for the island (as it is a national park), my bags and food were collected and I was transported to the main station by truck, where I will be living/working for the next three months.

My initial observations are best summed as follows:  the local geography of the island parallels to coastal North Carolina; the fog and the feeling of humidity is refreshingly cold to the touch; the wild horses are a protected species, and we must keep our distance; the waves crashing on both the Southern and Northern shore can be heard and felt.  The people are few, but are very friendly.

Hoping to learn more as the days turn to weeks.









After being on the island for a month, I have a more in-depth report to post:

The island.  What can we say about the island? A living dichotomy, similar to the arctic. Barren, yet beautiful. Calm, yet stormy. There are times out here when the stillness is eerie; yet the high winds bring rollers on the north and south shore that would make any locomotive cower in comparison.

The fog, is an animal of its own right. It can be seen, felt and smelled, if you're adept. The oceanic influence from both shores is inescapably amazing. The high humidity and the increased salinity are a universal cure for many ailments. Since being out here I have noticed that I breathe deeper, my skin feels whole and replenished; the impact of the ocean is not forgotten.

The ocean has always felt like home to me. Whether diving, sailing, or surfing, I find an immense calmness amidst the power within the ocean; another dichotomous observation perhaps.

The stars and constellations, are pure. There is very little light pollution here, and many many stars are visible.

The wildlife, is truly that; wild. The infamous Sable Island horses are scattered against the grass studded sand dunes, grazing at free will. The aboriginal Grey Seals, are everywhere. To me, they are the divas of the island. They enjoy their space, and will hiss at you if noticed. But if you pretend they aren’t there, and walk on by, they will laze there, quietly observant of the human condition, if not quizzical as to why you are not looking at them. Dichotomous again.

Everyone who has walked the sandy dunes of Sable before me, has their own stories to share. I have the good fortune to be here with a lady whom has graced the island for 40+ years, and I intend to learn as much from her as I can. Stories are how we pass down knowledge from generation to generation...even in the current age of the internet, our best methodology of sharing information is listening to the verbal stories from our elders. They are often uncensored, raw, yet colourful and full of truths beyond initial comprehension. The key is to listen, actively; and truly hear what the storyteller wants you to learn. I will share some of what I learn from her, with you all. In no way can I hope to effectively share everything that I wish I could about this unique place, but I will try.

This island has a long and rich history, ranging from the unique wildlife, the numerous shipwrecks, to its past as a penal colony.  I hope to uncover a few layers of history during my time here, and share the stories I learn, similar to discovering a glass bottle washed ashore from the icy grips of the north Atlantic, and wondering about what path it took to get where it is. Where was it cast off from? The legacy lays within the mystery; for each of us to reveal.

Not much more to report tonight.

Happy trails everyone, thanks for reading.


-ML



Monday, May 1, 2017

A Maritime Preamble

Well sports fans, the internal GPS tracker has no doubt been pinging from down east lately.  

Shortly after the Easter holiday weekend spent in Ontario, I was back at Pearson again; boarding pass said Halifax this time.  After a great visit with friends and family, it was off to the shores of Nova Scotia, to await my charter flight to Sable Island.  Due to a mechanical issue with the plane, and then a weather delay, I was fortunate to spend two down days in Halifax.  

I caught up with my old CANDAC colleague Alexey, visited some of my favourite Halifax spots, as well as discovered a couple new favourites!  Wandered along the harbourfront and sampled as many seafood options as I could!

Couldn't help but bring back fond memories from the 2005 Uteck Bowl when we played Acadia at Saint Mary's University. 

I've always enjoyed visiting Halifax; the ocean air mixed with the friendly culture is very refreshing.  It was a great chance to relax before my three month tour on Sable Island commenced.


outside the Maritime Museum
 







the infamous Alexey