The North Atlantic - Part 3

Well sports fans, I've been off the island now for a month.  Readjusted to society again and have started making the rounds to see friends and family around southern/northern Ontario.  Sable was a truly unique and special experience, that I will never forget.  The final weeks of my tour were great, and I have some good pictures to share with you.  I want to say a very large Thank You to my colleagues on the island, who became good friends.  So Thank You.  There we go.

We experienced a weather delay during the last week I was on the island, a fog delay, in true Sable form.  However, a window of good weather cleared enough for us to land a plane on the beach and we were wheels-up shortly thereafter. Suddenly immersed back into society, it was time to rip the anxiety band-aid off, and find some sense of normalcy again.  After a month back, all is well.  Glad to be back, and off again on another adventure very soon.

Enjoy the pictures, as we close the recent chapter of Sable Island...with the hope that it may re-open down the dusty trails of Life.

Best,

ML.

Same sunset as above, but taken through a binocular lens

Bald Dune

View from atop Bald Dune

 

sunset through low-level fog

one of the last foggy nights before departure

sunset the night before departure

back on the mainland in Halifax

The North Atlantic - Part 2

There is a profound sense of being safe here on Sable. There are no threats from wildlife on the island, no concern of drowning as we aren't allowed into the ocean, and as long as one can maintain their mental constitutions, there is no concern of an adverse impact from the isolation. It is an odd feeling, to be safe in a place that is renowned for it's sandy shoals resulting in so many fatal shipwrecks. Coupled with the harsh environment of the North Atlantic which bring seasonally driven storms of significant magnitude.

A short time ago, we entered into the 2017 hurricane season. To date, my tour has been relatively calm with respect to weather. 09 June that changed for a short period. The first storm of the season ripped up the coast, and had us in its direct path. It was a surreal experience overall. Shortly after dinner the winds picked up and some rain started to fall. The weather maps showed a hurricane shaped system headed our way. As we watched the wind speeds pick up, it became time to release the 2315Z radiosonde weather balloon. 15 minutes before release time, I went outside and observed a change in the weather. Suddenly the skies were blue and the sun was shinning, with dark clouds circling on each horizon. We were in the eye of the storm. We successfully released the balloon in approximately 39 knots, just as the eye had passed and the northern edge of the southern half of the storm hit us. That night we topped out at 52 knots, not a hurricane force, but certainly an amazing experience. The side of me that enjoys dramatic weather was satisfied, it was time to check now for any related damages. Fortunately there were none to report, and all members of the island were safe.

Surface winds, 09 June 2017

Balloon/radiosonde release amidst the high winds, 09 June 2017

Weeks ago, I took a ride with the Parks Canada Coordinator eastward on the north beach to take a look at a shipwreck which is visible at low tide. The SS Skidby sunk in 1905 off the shores of Sable, and has remained in shallow depth ever since. There is not much left of the ship, but a short mast is still visible. As we stood there, calmly looking at the resting place of a violent shipwreck, the feeling of the Safe v. Dangerous comparison could not be ignored. The fear of the crew as they abandoned ship, only to be on a desolate island with a member of the life saving establishment onshore, awaiting to help as best they could to calm the shock.

SS Skidby (1905)

It is an odd feeling to be safe amidst what could be such a dangerous location. One that shouldn’t and isn’t taken lightly. No false sense of confidence can creep in, or mistakes could be made, both in judgement and in action.  During a recent weekend I was able to go with the Parks Canada employees in a vehicle, and we toured the entire island; both shores, and both the West and East tips.  It was a great opportunity to view the entire island.  The trip to the West Tip was foggy and rainy, while the next day was clear and sunny when we went to the East Tip.  A truly authentic Sable Island experience.

West Tip

Mast from an unknown shipwreck

                                   

Shipwreck remains (unknown)

Remains of the Merrimac (1999)

Bald Dune

East Light

East Tip

With the knowledge of the massive storms that this island has endured, I have been witness to many gorgeous sunsets in the calm times. The sky seems to go on forever, with all horizons displaying a unique characteristic as the sun fades each day.

Summer Solstice rainbow

Summer Solstice sunset

It has been a great 10 weeks so far out on Sable, with another 2 weeks to go.  Hoping to finish the tour in good form.  

Until next time, happy trails.

ML

The North Atlantic - Part 1

As someone with an inquisitive nature and a joy of global exploration, there have been places I have always wanted to go which I knew I could get to, and then there are places that fell into the "yeah, that would be nice to get to, but logically it doesn't seem feasible.".  We all have them, take a minute and think about your list.

A minute has passed...maybe more, probably less.

For me, I have always been aware of the iconic Canadian sandbar, proudly nestled off the coasts of Nova Scotia and Newfoundland, but truly never thought I would step foot on; Sable Island.  It all starts with the appropriate aviation delay; be it weather, engine trouble, or a test flight to the coast (or all three in my experience).

After a successful beach landing in the Norman Islander we flew out on, my introduction to Sable Island was abrupt, and raw.  The ocean to the South, the infamous Sable Island horses scattered to the North and East. Greeted by the Parks Canada Coordinator for the island (as it is a national park), my bags and food were collected and I was transported to the main station by truck, where I will be living/working for the next three months.

My initial observations are best summed as follows:  the local geography of the island parallels to coastal North Carolina; the fog and the feeling of humidity is refreshingly cold to the touch; the wild horses are a protected species, and we must keep our distance; the waves crashing on both the Southern and Northern shore can be heard and felt.  The people are few, but are very friendly.

Hoping to learn more as the days turn to weeks.

After being on the island for a month, I have a more in-depth report to post:

The island.  What can we say about the island? A living dichotomy, similar to the arctic. Barren, yet beautiful. Calm, yet stormy. There are times out here when the stillness is eerie; yet the high winds bring rollers on the north and south shore that would make any locomotive cower in comparison.

The fog, is an animal of its own right. It can be seen, felt and smelled, if you're adept. The oceanic influence from both shores is inescapably amazing. The high humidity and the increased salinity are a universal cure for many ailments. Since being out here I have noticed that I breathe deeper, my skin feels whole and replenished; the impact of the ocean is not forgotten.

The ocean has always felt like home to me. Whether diving, sailing, or surfing, I find an immense calmness amidst the power within the ocean; another dichotomous observation perhaps.

The stars and constellations, are pure. There is very little light pollution here, and many many stars are visible.

The wildlife, is truly that; wild. The infamous Sable Island horses are scattered against the grass studded sand dunes, grazing at free will. The aboriginal Grey Seals, are everywhere. To me, they are the divas of the island. They enjoy their space, and will hiss at you if noticed. But if you pretend they aren’t there, and walk on by, they will laze there, quietly observant of the human condition, if not quizzical as to why you are not looking at them. Dichotomous again.

Everyone who has walked the sandy dunes of Sable before me, has their own stories to share. I have the good fortune to be here with a lady whom has graced the island for 40+ years, and I intend to learn as much from her as I can. Stories are how we pass down knowledge from generation to generation...even in the current age of the internet, our best methodology of sharing information is listening to the verbal stories from our elders. They are often uncensored, raw, yet colourful and full of truths beyond initial comprehension. The key is to listen, actively; and truly hear what the storyteller wants you to learn. I will share some of what I learn from her, with you all. In no way can I hope to effectively share everything that I wish I could about this unique place, but I will try.

This island has a long and rich history, ranging from the unique wildlife, the numerous shipwrecks, to its past as a penal colony.  I hope to uncover a few layers of history during my time here, and share the stories I learn, similar to discovering a glass bottle washed ashore from the icy grips of the north Atlantic, and wondering about what path it took to get where it is. Where was it cast off from? The legacy lays within the mystery; for each of us to reveal.

Not much more to report tonight.

Happy trails everyone, thanks for reading.

-ML

A Maritime Preamble

Well sports fans, the internal GPS tracker has no doubt been pinging from down east lately.  

Shortly after the Easter holiday weekend spent in Ontario, I was back at Pearson again; boarding pass said Halifax this time.  After a great visit with friends and family, it was off to the shores of Nova Scotia, to await my charter flight to Sable Island.  Due to a mechanical issue with the plane, and then a weather delay, I was fortunate to spend two down days in Halifax.  

I caught up with my old CANDAC colleague Alexey, visited some of my favourite Halifax spots, as well as discovered a couple new favourites!  Wandered along the harbourfront and sampled as many seafood options as I could!

Couldn't help but bring back fond memories from the 2005 Uteck Bowl when we played Acadia at Saint Mary's University. 

I've always enjoyed visiting Halifax; the ocean air mixed with the friendly culture is very refreshing.  It was a great chance to relax before my three month tour on Sable Island commenced.

outside the Maritime Museum

 

the infamous Alexey

The Mountains and Oil Country

During February and March I managed to tour around Alberta a bit when not at work.  Took in a few Edmonton Oil Kings hockey games in the new Rogers Arena, where the Edmonton Oilers play.  Ticket prices were much more affordable though!  

My cousin Sarah was out West for work, so we took a road trip from Edmonton to Calgary, Canmore, Lake Louise, a short re-route over the B.C. border back into Alberta, pit stop in Rocky Mountain House and back to Spruce Grove.  My mom visited in early March, and we took a road trip to Jasper amidst a cloudy and snowy couple of days.  

Early April marked the completion of my first work tour in Stony Plain for EC.  After my final shift, I flew back to Toronto, landing with a fresh set of tired eyes.   

Not much to report beyond that, but have included a couple pictures.